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Everest 2007 & 2008! 2009!

For a complete photo slide show, see the Everest 2007 Gallery.  Click on any photo to see a larger version with description.

In January of 2007, I received an email from Julio, a cardiologist from Wisconsin who I met in 2005 while climbing Denali.  He asked if I would be interested in joining a small, unguided but fully supported expedition to the north side of Mount Everest. It would be run by World Records Expeditions & Treks, a company started by Julio's Sherpa friends, Lhakpa Gelu and Apa.  Lhakpa Gelu holds the world speed record on Everest, having ascended from base camp on the south side to the summit in just 10 hours, 56 minutes.  Apa has the most summits of Everest, at that time 16, but since this last 2008 season has reached 18.  Apa and Lhakpa Gelu would not be on our expedition because they were going to climb on the south side as part of a Super Sherpa team (www.supersherpas.com).  Show-offs : )

Our team consisted of four climbers (Julio, Gene, Con and me), three Sherpas (Phanden, Lama Jangbu and Lopsang), two cooks (Nima and Kami) - one at Base Camp and another at Advanced Base Camp - and a Tibetan kitchen boy named Tamting (I don't know how to spell his name). 

On May 15, we attempted to summit from below 8,000 meters on the north side, which proved to be too low on the mountain and too long a summit day for most of us.  It was hours before we even reached the point where other climbers started.  Gene and Phanden turned around before the First Step. The rest of us continued to the Second Step (8,600m / 28,230ft), where Julio and Lama Jangbu determined we'd run out of oxygen before making it back to high camp if we did indeed reach the summit.  It didn't make sense to climb the most difficult and dangerous section if we weren't going to summit, so after spending 30 minutes enjoying the amazing view from the northeast ridge, Julio and I turned around with Lama Jangbu.  Con, a professional mountain guide and stronger climber, continued to the summit with Lopsang and summited around 10:30 to 11am. 

What an experience!  Although not reaching the summit was disappointing, it always is, I was thrilled to get the chance to climb Everest and go as high as I did.  Joining a small, unguided expedition, making our own decisions, right or wrong, gave me an appreciation of what it takes.  But I also realize we were pretty lucky with the weather.  Regardless, back at Base Camp, I wanted to go up again.  My body was shot but my mind felt confident I could reach the summit.  The rather impatient "return to Everest" wheels had already started turning.  I am so addicted. 

Many thanks to our magnificent Sherpas - Phanden, Lama Jangbu and Lopsang - our cooks - Nima and Kami - and Tamting!  I also want to thank Julio, whose email got me off my couch and on the greatest adventure of my life.  He is the first and only Puerto Rican to summit Mount Everest (from the south side in 2002) and is not only brilliant but also a heck of a lot of fun to have around camp!

Until I received Julio's email, I had no expectation that I'd ever attempt Everest.  It's ridiculously costly in terms of money and time.  There are many more experienced climbers and mountain guides who would love to climb Everest but don't because of the time and financial commitment.  When I left for Kathmandu in March, I was so nervous I almost cried at the airport.  What on freakin' earth was I doing?!  It was overwhelming to think I was going back to Nepal, not as a trekker, but as an Everest climber.  But now that I've been there, I want to go back.  Thankfully, I've got a lot of support.  As my Dad said, "If you want to go back to Everest, then we're going back!"  No, he didn't mean that literally, he's 86.  Co-workers and friends are also extremely supportive.

To ease my parents' minds, as well as enhance my summit chances, I told my family I would join the best guided expedition on the north side.  Gulp.  At what point did I go from never expecting to climb Everest to spending half my savings to climb Everest?  Many thanks to all of you who have pitched in to help me fund this extraordinary adventure!

Confessions of a Non-Summiter is now off-line.  I'm no longer confessin' and instead I'm looking forward to 2008... I mean 2009!

On to 2008....2009...

So what just happened?  OMG.  A migraine headache, some sleepless nights and plenty of emails and phone calls, that's what  (I feel like that guy, you know, to the right).  I was going to return to the north side with Himalayan Experience, aka Himex.  In case you are wondering, this was the team featured on The Discovery Channel in 2006 and 2007 - our team was not going to be filmed this year.  But just two weeks prior to departure, the Chinese closed Everest to climbers this season because of the Olympic torch carrying event.  One team member, David Tait, who has already reached the summit from the north twice with Himex and who would be climbing without using supplemental oxygen this year, opted to climb from the south (Nepal).  Unfortunately, his attempt was soon aborted.  The rest of our team decided to postpone to 2009.  It is very disappointing but there are just too many uncertainties.  This endeavor is riddled with uncertainties as it is.  In the meantime, I will do some other climbing and post photos, of course (did you think I wouldn't?). 

Many thanks to Russell Brice, whose leadership allowed us to make a difficult decision as a team.  I'm now looking forward to joining his 2009 Everest team and all that comes with that - another year of training, wondering if the Chinese will close the mountain again next year, worrying about breaking a bone or pulling a muscle, continuing to work as a contractor to allow time for Everest, wondering if I should go skiing, opting for a run over a movie, opting for water over wine, whining about that, booking hotels for business travel based on gym quality, and pigging out on donuts, ice cream and beer next Feb/March to gain weight.  Incidentally, that diet is fine before leaving for Everest, when you know you will soon lose more weight than that gained.  Kind of a bummer when the Chinese close the mountain after you've put on the pounds and developed a taste for everything sugary. 

The Unemployed Yak - Everest North 2008

If you are curious about events on Everest this season, the Chinese team did reach the summit with the Olympic torch via the north side on May 8.  Climbers on the Nepal side of Everest (the side the Chinese team descended) were then allowed to ascend the mountain after having to stay at or below Base Camp from May 1 until the Chinese reached the summit.  Several climbers summited Everest beginning May 20 - those lucky dawgs!

In attempting a mountain like Everest, some of the biggest challenges happen before boarding the plane to Kathmandu (if you get that far), so it's important, and sometimes difficult, to stay positive and focused.  The support that I have received since returning from Everest last season has been overwhelming.  My parents and sister were waiting for me at SFO without even a phone call.  I heard from people I hadn’t seen in years.  I was asked to show slides to various organizations.  I felt like a rock star.  I wondered, “Do they know I didn’t summit?” 

Thank you to so many people for your support, contributions, enthusiasm, and encouragement!  I know my vacation on Everest is not the most important thing going on in the world but it sure does stir up a lot of interest!  Thank you to the following organizations for welcoming me and my slides. I enjoy sharing my experiences with others but I realize I need to work on limiting my presentation to 45 minutes to an hour (as you know, it's extremely difficult for me!):

The Francisca Club, San Francisco
The Clorox Company, Oakland
The San Mateo Senior Center
The Pacific Union Club, San Francisco
The Sons in Retirement, Healdsburg
The Hillsborough Racquet Club
Rock Rendezvous, Berkeley

This endeavor has shown me that I am surrounded by people who love a good adventure.  You inspire me.  Thank you.  Thank you.

THANK YOU!!

Next year...

Everest - Facts & Stats

The following is a brief summary of the mountain with some facts and statistics, updated through the end of the spring 2007 climbing season. My source is the Himalayan Database, created and updated by Elizabeth Hawley and Richard Salisbury.

Mount Everest, at 29,035 feet (8,648 meters), is the highest mountain in the world and is located on the Nepal/Tibet border.  It was named in 1865 after Sir George Everest, the British surveyor general of India. The Nepalese name for the mountain is Sagarmatha, which means Goddess of the Sky.  The Tibetan name is Chomolungma (or Quomolongma), which means Mother Goddess of the Universe. 

There are two main routes on Everest - the southeast ridge from Nepal (Hillary's 1953 route) and the northeast ridge from Tibet (Mallory's 1924 route) as well as many other less frequently climbed routes. Climbers go up and down the mountain to acclimatize and establish camps along the way before the final summit push. 

The first to summit were Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay of Nepal, via the southeast ridge, on 5/29/53. The first American to summit was James Whittaker, on 5/1/63, also via the southeast ridge.  Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) were the first to climb without oxygen, on 5/8/78.  Reinhold  Messner also did the first solo ascent, on 8/20/80, via the northeast ridge.

The first woman to summit was Junko Tabei of Japan, on 5/16/75, via the southeast ridge.  Stacy Allison was the first American woman to summit, on 9/28/88, also via the southeast ridge. 

By the end of 2007, there were 3,644 total summits of Everest, 154 without the use of supplemental oxygen.  This includes multiple ascents for several people.  217 people died, 56 after reaching the summit. 

Only 186 of total summits were reached by women (5 died following a summit - 7 women died total).  9 women summited twice and one woman, Lhakpa Sherpa, summited 6 times.  Taking into account multiple ascents, 173 women (includes 5 Sherpas)  have reached the summit of Everest, including 30 American women (2 twice).  5 women reached the summit without using supplemental oxygen; one of them died on the descent.  Women make up just 5% of total summits. 

There has been a staggering increase in the number of people and summits per year on Everest. In 1996, documented in Jon Krakauer's book Into Thin Air and David Breashear's IMAX movie, Everest, there were 98 summits and 15 deaths (the most deaths in a single year).  In 2003, there were 264 summits, 4 deaths; and in 2006, 480 summits, 11 deaths.

During 2007, there were 607 summits on Mount Everest, 10 without the use of supplemental oxygen (2 women).  The 607 summits includes Sherpas who reached the summit more than once in the year.  350 non-Sherpa climbers summited Everest.  There were 7 deaths, 2 after summiting. 

34 women reached the summit in 2007, 26 via the north route (no Americans) and 8 via the south route (2 Americans).  Two women, Nives Meroi (Italy) and Alexia Zuberer (Switzerland) summited without using supplemental oxygen (both north route).

The Nepalese, most hired as climbing Sherpas, easily top the number of summits with 1,528.  They've also suffered the most deaths - 76.  Apa Sherpa holds the record for the most summits - 17 (now 18 in 2008!).  The number of American summits is 389, followed by the UK (196), China (182), and Japan (148).  Again, these numbers include multiple summits for several individuals.

Is it really so shocking that there is an increasing number of climbers on Everest?  There's only one Everest and for the most part, only one time of year to climb it (few climbers are there in the fall).  All of the Seven Summits are crowded.  I couldn't believe the line-up of climbers heading to the summit of Denali when I was there in 2005.  We were on the West Buttress route, considered the easiest and because of that, most popular route on Denali.  Local mountains are also crowded.  When a few of us reached the top of Shasta via the steeper and more remote northern route, we saw an anthill of people ascending from the popular southern route, Avalanche Gulch.  The summit was full of climbers, some chatting on their cell phones like they were in their homes.  I initially gasped in disgust, but then I laughed because until the moment when we reached the top of a snow slope that brought us within a few hundred feet of the summit, we thought we were the only climbers on the mountain.  Despite the surprise party on top, I was still thrilled to be there.  The beauty of mountain climbing is that on another route, it's like another mountain.  Because of mountain climbing's increasing popularity, to escape the crowds, you have to climb the more remote routes or mountains or during an off season.